RE: Car Towing Methods
I tow a 2005 Jeep Liberty, on a trailer. When I priced towing, I found all 3 methods had the about the same costs. My Jeep weighs 4200# so had to change the hitch for all 3 anyway so I selected the trailer for 3 reasons:
1 - I didn't want the wear and tear on the Jeep, it has a 7 year 70,000 mile warranty. It has 9,400 miles on it now and has traveled over 16,000 miles behind the Minni.
2 - The other methods were single use investments and were not much less expensive. I bought the trailer new, (7.5' X 14' W/7000 Lb capacity)with spare and ramps for $2,000.00. I already had a brake controller.
3 - I travel alone, so being able to back-up is very important. With the video camera I can back up safely, and have had to on a couple of occasions. It's just like backing a boat trailer.
Hooking up is no trouble with the video, I can set the camera to show the ball when hooking up, so get it the first time every time. It does take about 15 minutes to tie the Jeep down for road trips.
I have never had a problem storing the trailer, I just leave it on the MH until I get home. Perhaps the big plus for me was being able to get rid of a Pickup that I no longer needed (and it paid for the trailer.) I can use the trailer to haul anything I need, such a going to the dump etc. There is the yearly registration, $25.00, but it does not require extra insurance. I guess it just depends on your needs as to what is the BEST way to tow. The trailer works for me.
RE: Outside Dual Tire Pressure
After you checked the pressure, then try to add air! I have spent over an hour trying to add a few pounds to the outside dual. So I bought the 6 wheel kit, of solid valve stems, from "Tireman". It took me all day to install them but now checking and adding air pressure is a 3 minute job on all six wheels.
RE: How do you install tire pressure monitors ?
I bought a 6 wheel set from Trikor (tiresaver.com.) The monitor/receiver seems to work well on my unit. The monitor allows setting alarm values for each axle, (pressure and temp.) The monitor display show a graphic of the six tires with last reported pressure temp. and the display can be polled at any time manually The sensors just screw on the valve stems, and allow checking and adding air thru the sensor. Paid $350.00 for the set.
It seems to have a couple of quirks. One is that when I stop for a few minutes, like for fuel, it thinks the drop in tire pressure, from cooling down, is a slow leak. I asked tech support about it and was told that was a software feature, separate from normal alarms. The "slow-leak" alarm display clears after driving a few miles.
Also actual pressure displayed is about 5 pounds lower then actual measured pressure. I have only made one trip of 2000 miles since I installed the system but I find the peace-of-mind of knowing the tires are holding air, to be worth the price. I am sure there are better products on the market, but so far I am happy with these.
RE: Help with Onan Generator Problem
Jim, on my Minnie the coach battery switch MUST be ON to crank the gen set. A simple check of the Gen set starter circuit.
With the generator's service door removed, the starter relay, sits above the control board on the extreme left side for the Gen Set. At least on mine, the battery + lead is bolted to the outside terminal (nearest to the opening). This cable goes to the coach battery to supply +12 VDC. The negative lead is connected to the chassis frame.
If you check with a VOM at the starter relay and have 12 VDC to Ground, then you should check that voltage while cranking the Gen Set. If it drops to less then 8 volts then you have a battery problem.
You can also use a jumper cable from another battery source between the starter relay and chassis to crank the gen set while bypassing your coach battery.
RE: Airless Valve Stem Extensions
After 4 years of fighting unstable valve stems and extenders that made checking tire pressure almost impossible, I ordered a solid brass kit from "Tire Man". Now I can check all 6 tires in about 3 minutes.
The included instructions mentioned that a good tire man could install these in 2-2+1/2 hours, I installed them myself and it took me about 1 hour per wheel.
The best addition to the MH to date. I should have done it 4 years ago. I don't understand why manufactures don't include them on all new MH.
RE: Heading to Mount Rushmore and Yellowstone
Bike week usually takes (fills) all facilities so if you don't have reservations then I wouldn't plan on spending much time around Rapid City. I think the State Fair is also on at time too.
Don't forget Devils Tower, the nations first monument, get off I90 at Sundance and take Hyway 14 to visit the tower then continue on Hyway 14 to Moorcroft and catch I90 again. There will be a lot of bikers there too. big Ham-and-Jam at Beulah, Wy that week.
Very scenic ride from I90 over the Big Horns to Cody and Yellowstone. Hyway 16 out of Buffalo to Ten-sleep is very nice. So is Hyway 14 out of Sheridan thru Shell Canyon. Both routes are very steep mountain passes but worth the effort.
Have a nice trip.
RE: Onans have a "frequency setting"?
I think Onan likes to sell replacement parts. I just had the same problem with a Microquiet 4000. Removed the carb and cleaned the fuel-mixture jet, soaked everything in cleaner overnight and now it runs like new. The speed control is fixed, they use a metal rod and spring that you can remove from the throttle control without changing any settings.
RE: need help with hub caps
My stainless steel covers came with the special flimsy T-handle socket wrench and instructions to use only that wrench to remove or install the covers. There are two cover nuts per wheel that hold the covers on. These cover nuts have an indent on one side to identify them and the screw onto the the threads that extend past the lug nuts.
But after getting new tires, I found that the provided wrench just was not capable of getting the cover nuts off. The tire installer must have used an impact wrench to put the covers back on. I had to buy a 1+1/8" socket to get the covers off, so I could get the wheel lug nuts off.
RE: RV Communities
There are plenty of places in mid-fl, around the Palatka area. I spend Nov - Apr there and find the weather excellent. Last winter we had one day with a frost, and generally 65-75 most days. Typical 1/4 acre lots are 10-12K. If you want to get on the river, then expect to pay $200,000 or more, but just a place to while away the winter is not that expensive.
The homes are mixed from stick built to older trailers and as far as I have seen there are no restrictions on what you can build. Plenty of lots so you can get two or more to build on. Most in the area use the car-port type covers for RV or boats etc. This is not a gated community type area but a rural setting and you would probably have to clear the land for most sites.
If you are traveling south of Jacksonville (about 60 miles on HWay 17) check it out. I have spent the last 4 winters there and loved every day of it.
RE: house battery goes dead when rv hooked up to electric
Lots of variables, depends on design. But in my Minnie, shore power runs the converter, which is capable of up to 45 AMPS at 12 VDC and also supplies the 120 VAC.
The coach batteries are connected to the 12 VDC buss (charger) thru a relay that is controlled by a rocker switch. If the relay is NOT energized, then the batteries are disconnected from the coach 12 VDC buss and depending on their condition, will self discharge over time. While everything using 12 VDC is operating as long as shore power is applied. The first indication of a weak coach battery is the Gen Set wont start, it requires the coach battery to start.
RE: gen starts and stops
I just went thru that same type problem. Would start then died. Check the trouble code, mine was 3-6. I had to remove the Gen Set from the MH to gain access to service it. I was planning on taking it into Cummins.
After a lot of checking I found a dirty carburetor was the culprit.
What I did - First take the air cleaner out and while attempting to start, spray a little carb-cleaner into the throat. If it starts and attempts to run, then keep spraying small amounts, just enough to keep it running while verify it is producing 120VAC. This will prove that it is a fuel problem and not the control board.
Remove the fuel line at the carb and check for good fuel while cranking, if okay then the next step is to pull the carb and clean it. There are two 10MM hex head bolts thru the air cleaner assembly that hold the carb to the manifold.
The Onan service manual says no overhaul just get a new carb.
I took mine apart. It is a very simple carb. The fuel shut-off solinoid holds the bowl on. Inside are a float with attached needle valve and the air-fuel mixture valve, (labeled as the altitude adjustment.) The air-fuel mixture adjustment was my problem, the needle valve and seat was a little dirty. I tried cleaning without removing it and then the motor would run, but was surging bad and would die under full load. So I took it off again.
To get this needle out you have to pry the plastic altitude adjustment knob (a press fit) away from the bowl enough to allow unscrewing the needle valve all the way out, its spring loaded. (Count the turns so you can return it to the same setting after cleaning.) Then spray cleaner into the all the holes and clean everything good.
After doing that it now starts immediately and runs like new. Ran it for over an hour under full load and never missed a beat.
Made my day..
RE: What does this spring attach to?(Onan Marquis 5000)
On my Microquiet 400 there are two linkage rods that control the throttle and the choke. They cross over each other and the rod that controls the throttle also has the spring like you described. It connects at the throttle linkage, in the same hole as the rod. I just had my carb off and wondered what purpose that spring has. I just checked a picture I took and that spring does connect at both ends of the throttle linkage rod. Maybe it is just a back-up if the rod breaks???
RE: MPG& Mileage spreadsheet
I use the RVers Notebook software. I keep a complete history of all MH expenses and maintenance work with it. Along with the toad and the Gen Set. It then can easily produce reports for MPG and total Costs etc. The hardest part is recording the information before losing the receipts.
RE: seeking suggestions Re: severe weather July S.D. & WY
In July it is not uncommon to be 90-105 during the afternoon hours. Usually most of the sever thunder storms are over by July, but anything is possible. That time of the year most storms are very fast moving and happen in the late afternoon.
Wyoming is high plains and quite arid. Hot days and cool nights are common in July, but I have seen it snow in every month of the year here and have also played golf in every month, so you just have to take your chances. It seems the weather is always unusual.
RE: Microquiet 4000 problem.
Thanks for all the info and help.
I am now convinced that it is a fuel problem. After several attempts I was able to keep it running by spraying carb-cleaner into the mouth of the carburetor. I also noticed that if I prime it for 30 seconds before attempting to start it, it would start and run smoother and longer. But by spraying the cleaner into the throat it continues to run and will even run for a minute or two on the gas alone.
I have tried another fuel pump, with the same results. The pump does pump a good supply of fuel and voltage is applied to the pump while the engine is starting and running.
So its now off with the carb and I will try soaking it in cleaner for a couple of days. If that don't work then I can replace it. I notice the repair manual says not to attempt any repairs or rebuilds, just buy a new one. I will probably take it apart anyway and see if I can clean it up a little.
I have an old 2N Ford tractor that I have to do that to at least once a year.
Thanks again to all
RE: Slide out trouble
Maybe if you listed the make / model / year someone would have a manual or some information on the unit. My knowledge is limited to the hydraulic units.
RE: Microquiet 4000 problem.
gunny, no. Holding the 'Start' button will not keep it running.
What I was trying to say, is the engine reaches max RPM, the governor then activates to maintain RPM for 120 VAC. The governor arm(s) actually adjust the throttle on the carb. Then the engine shuts down, the governor is spring loaded and returns to it's at-rest position. This whole thing happens within about 3-4 seconds, the motor starts on about the first revolution.
The oil is new and full and I don't think this unit has a low oil shut down sensor, at least no wires to that area and no mention on the drawings.
The trouble code indicates the control panel did not shut it down, but there isn't much else to cause it. It will re-start immediately if the trouble code is shut off. It looks like everything except the 120VAC output, runs thru the control panel.
I was hoping that someone might have a way to verify the control is NOT bad.
Thanks
RE: Still having problems with shorepower (Solved)
If you have an electric heater, 1500 watts or something that does not have a motor but will produce a good load. While measuring the 120 VAC outlet for voltage, turn on the heater and watch the voltage. It the voltage stays up arouind 117 and the heater works, you have proved that the 120 VAC power source to your RV is working. Shore Power cable, adaapter, etc. If the voltage drops off and / or the heater does not work, then you have a problem with the Shore Powere connection. Start by using another source, then another adapter, etc. until you get the heater to work inside you RV. If you cant do that then call an electrician.
Hope this helps
